Our visitor learns a lot about Mexican history

Another Oregonian, Jeanie Bean, aka Doña Frijola, came to visit us for a week in early Sept.  We visited the churches, the dogs (perhaps a new book is in the works ((of the same form of the Doors of SMA)), the Starbucks, the local pyramid, the Cañada de la Virgen, y mucho mas. I’ve already posted about the wrestling event she and I attended. One of the highlights of her trip :>

These giant puppets were out to celebrate a wedding at the Parroquia

Finally getting to visit the pyramid was fabulous. We had a Spanish speaking guided tour, which would have been quite challenging, but fortunately another couple was with us. They were Mexicans who live outside of San Francisco and so were bilingual and super helpful. The woman was extremely outgoing and full of opinions and of love for her home country. Talking with her alone was worth the admission price. 

         Back to the pyramids. They are located in a spectacular canyon, but aren’t well known yet, so it was just our small group. I learned it was named (recently) for the canyon (cañada) and for a miraculous appearance of the Virgen that was found in a piece of quartz nearby (now kept at a nearby church.  The pyramid was occupied from about 500 – 1000 AD and served as a ceremonial site for people living in the canyon, as well as, like other pyramids, used for astronomical purposes. The structures are aligned with the setting sun.  Only the religious figures lived on site, in 12 chambers that you can see the remains of.  Until recently it was thought that pyramids and this level of civilization did not occur this far north, so their discovery  (within the last 15 years) has challenged that concept. 

The pottery fragments excavated are displayed in a beautiful garden onsite

One of the most interesting things at this pyramid is the presence of a founder (the “decapitated” man), whose remains were buried at the top, most sacred part of the pyramid. DNA testing showed that the founder was 500 years older than the pyramid itself. It is thought that he perhaps originated the idea of building the structures. When eventually the structures were built he was honored by being place inside.  One thing you learn about all the pyramids I’ve seen is they were built and enlarged over time. Here we saw evidence of 3 different building periods in which each new addition encases the previous pyramid. Cantera is a beautiful, multi- colored stone, which is widely used in the city of SMA and was also used as the finish stone over the whole structure. Much of the cantera is now gone (carried off for other people’s projects probably), but what remains is stunningly beautiful. It was a great day outing from SMA and I hope more people learn about it, as they could use the funding for more research.

Looking down from the top

Jeanie and I also visited some more modern structures, like the iglesias, merely 300 hundred years old. 

San Francisco Church

We also went to see some of the modern murals of the Mexican artist David Leonardo (I’m guessing not his given name?). I love his art, some of which details pre-hispanic myths and religion.

We had another good trip to Guanajuato. This time we visited the Alhondiga, a famous site in the Mexican revolution. Some advice - this museum is huge, don’t go on an empty stomach the way we did., as it takes a long time to see everything.  The Alhondiga was built as a very fancy granary (where the town stored its grains). 

Outside of the Alhondiga

Inside of the Alhondiga (granary)

     Why is it so elaborate? I guess because Guanajuato was so wealthy due to the silver mines nearby.  When the revolution began in 1810 many of the wealthy Spanish who were not in support of the uprising, were taking refuge inside here along with their possessions. Here is where el Pipila comes in (if you read my earlier posts you know about him).  He was the miner who (supposedly) single handedly stormed la Alhondiga building under a shower of bullets, using a massive stone as a shield. Once inside, he opened the doors to the mob, which brutally killed all inside. This turned many people against the uprising, and Allende (from SMA and one of the heroes) actually disavowed the slaughter.  Revenge was had, though.

Monument to the co-leader of the independence movement (from San Miguel)

 One year later when many of the founding insurgents, including Hidalgo, Allende, Aldama, and Morelos were captured down south and killed, their heads were brought to Guanajuato and stuck on posts on the corners of the Alhondiga as a warning to the populace. Gruesome but fascinating.  The war took 10 more years before the tides turned and Mexico gained independence in 1821. Now the museum has monuments to all the heroes and an eternal flame. As well, it has a huge collection of pre-hispanic artificacts, which Nataly didn’t let us get too good a look at.

     We walked up the hill to the huge Univ. of Guanajuato’s signature building. It was a great view, but the building was closed. 

Univ. of Guanajuato

     We walked all around the downtown and even found a Starbucks offering 2 for 1 to celebrate 10 years in Mexico. Michael and Jeanie enjoyed their frappacinos, while Nataly and a walked around listening to Mariachi bands serenading people. 

     Another great day. Michael and I really like the feeling of Guanajuato, partly because it’s a bigger city. Maybe next time (if there were to be such a thing) we’d come here. Jeanie wasn’t as impressed as us though.

     Jeanie’s final night we finally managed to get down to the restaurant called Churros y Chocolate. And had a delicious treat of, you guessed it, C y C. Mmmmm! More visitors need to come so we can have the excuse of eating something so decadent.